We thought we were headed for a quiet Holi
getaway to Madhya Pradesh. Orchha-Pranpur-Chanderi. We anticipated the grandeur
of the Orchha palaces and a restful Holi in the mango orchards. But were
completely unprepared for the breadth and depth of experience that Travel
Another India and Gouthami curated
for us.
Four days and a flood of stories, sights and
encounters. Sample some:
- A guest
house walled in by mango trees, designed and managed by farmers, village
scientists and community-tourism entrepreneurs. The Amraee quickly made us
their own. It has swept all awards possible for responsible rural tourism. The
Bundeli thaali served on Holi swept us into a minor culinary exploration.
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A day-long
tour of Chanderi (one must spend three to fully immerse in the stories of its
300+ historical monuments). My favourite was the walk through Sadar Bazaar - an
ancient market frequented by Khilji rulers and Mughal royals and chronicled by
Ibn Batuta.
At its
prime, the Bazaar was a three-tier retail hotspot - the lowest tier of shops
for customers on foot, a second level for consumers on horseback, and the
highest storey for royal shoppers on elephant back. The same goods were sold at
three different price tags for the three customer segments. A super example of
inclusive commerce!
- A drive
through sandstone quarries to the 1000-year old Nanoun caves. We spotted
crocodiles sunbathing on the banks of the river Urvashi. And witnessed the
chronicling of life through cave paintings from the chalcolithic age. Across
the banks, not far away, lay burial grounds from the Mesolithic age.
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| Cave Paintings in Nanoun |
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| River Urvashi had crocodiles on its banks! |
- A walk
across Asia's largest earthen dam that submerged 85 villages (all re-settled in
Chanderi) and temples and palaces of the 14th and 15th century. When the waters
of the Betwa recede in June, the submerged monuments re-emerge, with paintings
on their walls still undiminished. Massive flocks of migratory birds conference
on the lakes of this dam. You need to be here at sunset.
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| Sunset from the Rajghat Dam |
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Lunch in the
balcony of a 13th century royal hunting lodge, ensconced in the winding ghats
and forest's of Katighati. The verandah flanks out into a massive lake with
boatmen plying iron boats. Here, Babur's troops had taken shelter for months
and planned their strategy of attack on Chanderi. Here, we ate guava curry, and
fish freshly fried on the banks of the lake.
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| Lake of the Royal Hunting Lodge |
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| 14th Century Royal Hunting Lodge |
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| View from the Lunch Table |
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Conversations
with metal workers, potters and weavers. A family of metalworkers invited us
into their home in Pranpur and walked us through the intricacies of their
practice - a forgotten metal art form, which has probably not been documented.
Mud over wax moulds through which molten metal is poured and baked in earthen
ovens. The two layered mould is then cooled and cracked open to produce
intricate metal jewellery. Do not contest the prices fixed by the village
tourism council for this master craftsperson’s wares. Because you pay not just
for the product, but for an art form that may disappear in the next decade of
your life.
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| The Charkha in Pranpur |
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| Weaving the Chanderi fabric in Pranpur |
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And finally
the showstopper- an impulsive plunge into the flowing, rocky pools of the river
Betwa with Surendra bhai and his daughters, who are part of Friends of Orchha -
a network of village home stays in Orchha. The extended frolicking in the cold
waters delayed us by several hours to the next spot on our map. But did we
care?
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| Betwa River in Orchha |
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The oxygen that breathed colour and life into
our trip was the indomitable Kallebhai. A school drop-out, self-taught,
barefoot historian, who has published four books on the history of Chanderi,
and is at the forefront of working with UNESCO to have his town declared as a World
Heritage City. If not for anything else, visit Chanderi to just hear his story
of life entrepreneurship.
Oh! And we did play Holi under the mango
trees. And purchased a Chanderi stole or two. Thank you Travel Another India
for this largess.
Manisha Gupta
March 2015
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| The Mango Orchard at Amraee Guest House |
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| Doorway of the Jama Masjid in Chanderi - the designs continue to inspire the weavers! |
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| My
favourite- children of the 1000-year old village, nestled among stone
quarries, play holi with adandon and chase us with cowdung balls in
their hands |
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Rajpal
- the farmer-scientist- inventor with three patents to his name. He
manages the Amraee guest house out of his passion and love for the
region he was born in. Not often is he photo-bombed by guests.
|
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| 100-year old mud home in Orchha |
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| An
ancient metal pot discovered by the Archeological Survey of India.
Displayed in an open museum at the Raja-Rani palace in Chanderi. |
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| Baodi or step-well in Chanderi |
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| Frescoes in the palace in Orchha |
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| Jahangir Palace, Orchha |
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| Jama Masjid, Chanderi |
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| Mango blooms, Amraee Guest House, Pranpur |
