I first
visited Goa as a student of Tata Institute of Social Sciences (TISS), Mumbai.
The students of only one department (Urban and Rural Community Development),
were privileged a second study tour. Almost everyone who heard, including
inside and outside of TISS chuckled “Goa, yeh, study tour!?” This near
universal expression, we the privileged (URCD-ies) interpreted as envy, a
second study tour that too Goa!
Like many
other, the good thing about the tour was also the background work. We read up Fish
Curry and Rice by Claude Alvares, we read up about Du Pont and the
controversial Asia’s largest Nylon 6.6 plant, tourism and how it impacts local
culture, five-star hotels, and what they are doing to the fishing based
livelihoods, the sea, the waste they generate, privatisation of common
properties like the sea face and the beach and most importantly the projected
image of Goa “Wine, Women and … (song, food, sun, beach, drugs..You name
it), and why that is just not right.
 |
| Paddy Fields in the rain |
We have been
there one more time after almost more than a decade with friends and stayed
closer to the beach. Contrary to the Sun, Sand and the Sea, this time
we went to experience the rains, forests, rivers and peace.
Our visit in
early July was to watch it rain. Once you love the rains, you will watch them,
hear them and feel them very differently. The rains change from place to place,
the sound they make on the roofs, tin or clay, on rivers, on hills, on roads is
so very different. From the tiniest drops that stick to your hair like sparkling
diamonds, the big fat drops, to the sheets of rain that come crashing down to
cover the earth, they bring such joy and happiness.
So, we
followed the progress of monsoon (been inspired by Chasing the Monsoon/
Alexander Frater). Sadly there was very little to follow. It had rained earlier
on, but as we got closer to the date of travel, there was not even as much as a
drizzle, neither in Hyderabad nor in Goa! We were waiting like the Chataka
bird (as
we call it in Odiya – the cuckoo, Clamator jacobinus), that waits for rains to
quench its thirst.
Still, we went
with hope.
As your cab
turns inwards leaving the coastline behind, and you enter into the inside,
curved roads, leaving the city behind, you know you have chosen well. The lush
green of paddy fields, shadowy trees, cashew plants engulfs you into a
different side of Goa.
 | |
| Arco Iris |
We were
staying at a place called Arco Iris (which is Portuguese for rainbow) at
Curtorim. A 200-year-old Portuguese house renovated as a homestay. The house
faces the unending paddy fields. The walk around is surrounded by similar old
houses, some abandoned and dilapidated, some locked up and some being still
lived in, surfacing issues around property, ownership and the migratory status
of most of us. We do not know where we belong; whether where we physically are
or where our heart yearns to be.
The quiet that
our countryside offers is amazing. No sound of vehicles, hardly any honking and
one can walk miles without being interrupted by any sound that is not local.
There is the local fish man/woman who brings in fresh fish. There is also the
local bread (pui) which is delivered twice daily.
There is a
peaceful rhythm to life. The paths, the river, the cats, dogs, birds make for
excellent walking and living companions.
At Arco Iris,
besides the lovely family of four, there is also Feni, a beautiful Labrador.
The first time she saw us, she barked and then immediately became friends. We
also bribed her with tiny bits of pui every day, so that we develop
affinity quickly, without wasting the short vacation time of two days,
expecting she will come and sit with us in the balcao and walk with us.
 | |
| Rain-drenched Sunday |
As it
happened, Curtorim is a good friend’s village and this fact added to the fun,
that we were going to be staying in her village, walking those same paths! On a
Sunday morning we went to see the old village church, nice atmosphere of familiarity
of Sunday mass. Since Sunday is also church day, when everyone steps out to go
to the church, I noticed during our walks, two persons on the road who looked
mentally challenged. But unlike in urban areas, where we see them uncared for,
destitute and living off the road, these persons looked like they were being
taken care of. Struck me what we had studied and experienced in community
organising (TISS course work) that a close knit community takes care of its
difficulties and problems together. It may just be out of charity, but in a
country like ours, with multiple and multi-layered issues, we need to exercise
both, Charity and Rights.
It rained that
night, so we woke up to the rain washed surrounding, looking at the plants and
trees, holding last night’s rain drops on their leaves. In no time, it poured!
Lovely lovely heavy rains! Our friend (Gouthami works on Responsible tourism
and has set up, Travel Another India, she suggested experiencing this side of
Goa, other than the beach and sand) drove us around in pouring rain through
nice long undulating empty roads. That drive is etched forever as one of the
brilliant drives spent in the rain.
 |
| Rock Paintings |
Since we were that
side, we drove around looking for Usgalimal rock engravings, which is
one of the most important prehistoric sites in western India. When we got
there, about one km down from the main road between Rivona to Neturlim, on the
banks of river Kushavati, the river was flowing full since the rains, it took
us sometime to find the engravings, but as soon as we figured out one, we found
them all! These petroglyphs (rock art) are approximately 20,000 to 30,000 years
old and belong to the Upper Palaeolithic or Mesolithic eras. More than 100
distinct figures in an area of 500 sqm, with images of bulls, labyrinths and
human figures are carved on laterite stones. The fun part was that there
was nobody around; and jamun (Syzygium cumini) trees in plenty laden
with fruit, no one to eat or guard. Feast!
 | |
| Wonder what they were trying to draw? |
We also
stopped at the beautiful Braganza Mansions, nice, old furniture, knick knacks,
the mansion presenting bygone days and ways of a household.
 |
| An old toilet at Braganza Mansion |
 | |
| At Braganza Mansion |
I have often
longed for Rain tourism! May be for us, Rain has come to mean either floods,
when too much, or drought when none. But to go from place to place, to be in
the rains, to cleanse the summer dust, to fill the lungs with the fresh smell
of wet earth and to sit down and watch, to rest and to be in peace, ah!
 |
| Anu and Dilip with Feni in the balcao |
Thanks to
Travel Another India and Gouthami, and Arco Iris, it was wonderful two days
spent in a renovated Portuguese house, with Goan food and Feni.
http://travelanotherindia.com/goa.html - for bookings, gou@travelanotherindia.com or call +91 9940 559 513
Anuradha Pati
July 2014
